12/14/2008

Iconoclast: Marilyn Minter



Since the 80s Marilyn Minter has been rocking the boat. Seizing on the sexual anarchism of Germaine Greer, Minter painted pornographic film scenes. This deeply offended both the art world and feminists. A decade later her work is now not only respected but she photographs with designers, has produced a micro line of skateboards with Supreme, and recently had a retrospective at the Whitney, all maintaining the same independent spirit.



Her paintings are gritty and unsentimental. Women grip strands of pearls with chapped lips. Ankle strap heels splash through filth. Yet her photorealistic paintings are incredibly beautiful. The tension is palpable but also exquisite.

Personally, Marilyn means a lot to me. She was my painting teacher while I studied at the School of Visual Arts. She has no boundaries, is honest, patient, and most importantly appreciates my sense of humor. My fellow classmates and I would sometimes mock her about her catchphrase,"Art is about ideas!"...but she's right and her art definitely shows she's still thinking through some provocative ones.

12/13/2008

Oh, Jacko...

You might be thinking that the Uggs slippers are a mistake or that the turquoise of the tunic is grotesque. But you're just wrong. You're looking inside the box man. And the Zorro mask? The superhero look is in. Sort of. You don't get it because you're boring and you're jealous of the style god Michael Jackson is becoming.



Holiday Sale at The Cast



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12/09/2008

Welcome to the Welcome Wagon



Years ago Vito and Monica Aiuto and Sufjan Stevens backing together in an ensemble called The Welcome Wagon. I was impressed and I asked Vito why they didn't have an album out. He said that they had been working on it for a while. Now its here. The project is a blend of soulful Appalachian gospel hymns and the kind of lush folk you'd expect with Sufjan providing backup instrumentation and producing. If you aren't already a fan of Sufjan (as I am) you should check him out too. Stevens and co. have created a unique sound that blends the naive jazz of Vince Guaraldi with the political style of Paul Simon and their own spirituality.

Download the new Welcome Wagon single Sold! To The Rich Man

J*@&!d In My Pants



I have to say that this is the best SNL season in a long time. The Lonely Island boys (Andy Samberg, Jorma Taccone, and Akiva Schaffer) have a lot to do with the revived funny on NBC.This skit was a perfect send up to the electro scene of Justice, Modular, and DFA. If you ignore the ridiculous lyrics you could imagine it being a popular track at Studio B. Samberg and Akiva's outfits are Topman and Urban Outfitters in overdrive.

The song will be on Lonely Island comedians new album Incredibad. Look for Incredibad in stores February 2009.

12/08/2008

Obits: Polaroid (1929-2009)



This month is the last month to buy film for the iconic Polaroid camera. The company decided to discontinue the "insta-camera" in February of this year. Yes, the format that captured your first triple-kiss is no more.

Rules were made to be broken: Lucas Samaras disturbed their surfaces to create surreal portraits and landscapes. Why approach the sensitive object gingerly? Samaras exploited its sensitivity and manipulated it to reflect black magic and hyper-realism rather than conventional hallmarks.



Losing the polaroid is a great reminder of how modest ideas and inventions can become linked with unexpected importance and drawn into unexpected applications. The Polaroid aesthetic burrowed its way into American culture with Robert Mapplethorpe and later with Terry Richardson. Polaroids might be gone today but its effects will probably continue for some time to come.

12/05/2008

Obamamania Inaugural Ball Edition

The campaign season is still in high gear for fashion designers hoping to clothe Michelle, Sasha, and Malia Obama for the Inauguration and the Inaugural Ball. WWD asked top designers to show some of their ideas for clothing the future first lady and her daughters. Below are a few of my favorites.



Rodarte




Lacroix




Kai Milla



And this cheeky number by Betsy Johnson.

Head over to WWD for looks from Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors, Diane Von Furstenberg and more. Meanwhile President-Elect Obama is getting his tux made by socialist union tailors.

12/04/2008

Shortcuts: Personal Vintage Shopper




Thrift and vintage shoppers have something to celebrate. Zeen asks shoppers a few simple questions about weight and height which filters curated finds for easy online vintage shopping. The measurements can be fine tuned, precisely tailoring the shops inventory for you. Sister-site Afinetooth.com also makes custom fit trousers in three contemporary styles.

En-Garde



Two year old menswear label Garde Robe strikes a vein with reimagined staples. Experiments in outerwear continue to be a strong point for the young designer as Olivier Borde delivers clever takes on the denim jacket, the tuxedo, and peacoat. Borde uses bold asymmetrical shapes in patterns and patchwork like a prism releasing fractured beams of color. Silhouettes are soft and boyish. The shirts are silk, and the harem trousers are likewise lined in silk. The integration of toughness and angularity with soft lines and boycut jackets are sure to please followers of designers Philip Lim and Kris Van Assche.







Buyers and stockists should head to Olivier Borde pronto for Garde-Robe S/S 09.

On On Kawara




There's a man who lives in Soho who usually gets up out of bed everyday and produces at least one painting in a series that he has worked on since 1966. He applies five layers of liquitex paint, sanding each one to a smooth finish when it dries. These are monochromatic images of a simple line of text: the date. Each of these graphic paintings is unique in other less subtle ways as the colors are created afresh everyday. The backdrop of the date may shift subtly towards warm hues, or towards cool hues. The specific date itself is handpainted without stencil though precisely in either futura, or gil sans. The man is celebrated conceptual artist On Kawara.

Accompanying the paintings are sometimes newspaper clippings, or recordings. They are also given subtitles which are sometimes personal (I saw so-and-so today) or impersonal records of daily events. There are gaps in the series. If the artist doesn't finish the painting by midnight on the day of its date the canvas is destroyed.



Taking in the series the Today Series one might expect to be confronted with thoughts of cool voyeurism, or history. However, the impact of this process driven work is far more. Today demonstrates the emptiness of tables. The dates have subjective meaning or meaninglessness based on the viewers approach. Most of us cannot without some effort remember what happened on specific dates of our lives. Memory instructs us that some things we hope to remember we soon forget, and other mundane things stay with us forever apparently without regard to significance or practicality.

Consider then the process of creating the paintings themselves. The artist spend hours building a thing that signifies nothing though its format, white text on a matte background, suggests permanence and gravity. The font featured on many pieces, Futura, was created by the Bauhaus and used regularly by Stanley Kubrick. The appearance instead gives way to a weightless sign without a thing signified. The power of text and record becomes a vulnerable gesture.

On the other hand, the paintings are also signposts of accomplishment and discipline. They can also be garnished with scraps of the past, those resilient scraps of sense experience. Our graduations, our realization of hopes, our realization of dreams can be linked to specific days. A line of graphic text can bring us back to the day we first fell in love.

On Kawara One Million Years will be on display January 14 through February 14 (Valentine's Day) at David Zwirner.

11/28/2008

When in Rome




The gladiator sandals are fading away but the Roman inspiration is back in a new shape thanks to Givenchy. These buckled wingtips are both aggressive and sexy (no small challenge for a man's shoe). Thanks to Amanda at IS MENTAL for the heads up.

Art theft

You're in a creative mood and an idea comes that you feel is unique. You start working on it and you execute the idea to the best of your ability. Not too long after you are surprised and upset. The idea isn't new at all, its been done before and with a mature trained approach you aren't quite capable of. If you have ever worked in any of the arts or sciences you've probably come across this scenario more times than you'd like. I've personally designed things and seen them show up in films or on a shelf. It's frustrating.

The best you can do is make that idea your own and take it in a fresh direction. Look at it another way. Nothing's new, but anything can be made new in an updated context, or with the help of your unique personality and background. This problem frequently challenges the modern artist. Embrace your predecessors, borrow, and rob your ancestors for their greatest contributions. "Bad artists copy. Great artists steal."

And for your consideration, look for the traces of the masters found in the work of Peter Doig. I see bits of Bonnard,Monet, and Bruegel as well. What do you see?

11/27/2008

Oh Kanye...



Mr. West is seen above in a pullover from his new line Pastelle. So far I am not impressed, I feel the same way about the piece seen above as I do those revealed in Vman a couple of months ago, and as I do about his new album. Obvious design choices are deployed in obvious ways. The 80s style colorblocking has been done better. Conspicuous logos are another demonstration of tastes lacking of sophistication.



808's and Heartbreak, West's new album, breaks from his tradition of creating catchy hip hop singles by producing what is essentially a hip hop infused pop album owes more to Peter Gabriel than perhaps any hip hop album ever. For me the stand out track is Say What You Will where this moody new wave sound comes together best. Lyrically, the album delves into emotional depths that don't suit his limited vocabulary and at times the narratives become unintentionally hilarious. When comparing his life to that of a family man he juxtaposes photos of a man's children to the rapper's cribs and his many cars. Boo-hoo. This feeling of emptiness is quickly replaced by more expected reveling in riches on other tracks, don't worry. The biggest element to weigh down the album is the nonstop autotuner usage which reminds us of the less interesting Genesis member, Phil Collins.

Kanye calls himself "the voice of our generation". Frankly, I'm not even worried about that being true. It rings as hollow as any other self-promotional statement rappers throw out casually.

11/15/2008

The Silver Lining of the Recession


See you in hell Crocs.

Crocs Inc (CROX.O: Quote, Profile, Research, Stock Buzz) posted a deep quarterly loss on Wednesday as sales of its colorful plastic shoes plunged and it racked up high restructuring costs, sending its shares down 37 percent in extended trade.

...In addition to crumbling U.S. consumer spending, news that Crocs can get caught in escalators and cause injuries has also hurt the company, together with the plethora of knock-off shoes in the marketplace, and a recent European Union ruling that a Crocs patent is invalid.

11/11/2008

Caballero Samurai

Sometimes ambiguity is where its at. In this case, its somewhere comfortably between a poncho and a kimono. Another reason to love Oak.

Mood Material







Sometimes inspiration comes like lightning breaking across a quiet evening. Years ago when I watched Belle De Jour my attention went into overdrive at the introduction of Marcel played by Pierre Clementi. Here was a stylishly painted infant terrible. He was as sharp and cool as juvenile. As weak and confused as he was dangerous and careless. In some ways he was like me. At the time I was suffering physically and financially. I was living in a loft in Brooklyn with no windows and infested with vermin. I took up chainsmoking over the dinnertable with my roomates and I became almost exclusively nocturnal. I was rarely seen without my black bowler, or my black opera hat.

However, far from being dour and introspective I was passionate and restless. Marcel didn't just inspire my style he embodied my disembodied restless mood and gave it a dramatic narrative.

The power of style is the power to transform the self. The right jacket and the right tie can elevate one's self-esteem, yes. But style permeates to the inner recesses of the soul. It colors one's attitude.

11/09/2008

Action sports

Catching up on updates today. My sister gave me a new board for my birthday and I've been breaking it in. One of the things I love about New York is the variety of styles people have in skate culture. An Adam Kimmel suit might be a bit over the top for the insane speeds these guys are going. They are practically flying around curvy roads in the hills.


Adam Kimmel presents: Claremont HD from adam kimmel on Vimeo.

Elegant "Fuck You" Clothes

Refined taste is a long list of dislikes. The people that I admire most love their craft so much that they have a highly tuned bullshit filter. It's easy to be offended by good taste because one sees his favorite things impugned and even casual affections challenged but its healthy to be able to withstand passion and disagreement. Slavish devotion to anything is to be avoided at all cost. It leads to a blindness of the mind.

That said I think Flusser's position on wearability a bit stifling on first impression, but its not implausible. His attitude makes me homesick for New York. In the video below Flusser talks about how clueless Hollwood celebrities are about dressing and the difference between style and fashion. Enjoy.

11/07/2008

Incentive to doubt #10,284,301

Does god exist?

WWD

Premium denim apparel vendor True Religion Apparel Inc.’s 75.6 percent leap in third-quarter profits blew past analysts’ estimates and prompted an increase in its full-year guidance.

For the quarter ended Sept. 30, the jeans and sportswear marketer reported net income of $15.4 million, or 64 cents a diluted share, compared with $8.8 million, or 37 cents a share, in the same year-ago period. Net sales were up 63.9 percent to $79.4 million, from $48.4 million. Analysts polled by Yahoo expected earning per share of 47 cents on sales of $65.8 million.


No, there is no god. While most retail crumbles into a fine powder, the least worthy agent in the denim market is still buoyed by the guys with the banker stripe shirts and square-toed alligators. Fuck.

11/06/2008

The Discreet Charm of D&G



Its easy to love the little guy. The underdog excites us because though we don't share her talent we share her awkward newness. And then there are the big guys. The incumbents. Every so often the well-muscled brands that have fallen into irrelevance or worse, parody, wake up. These are the sleeping giants of fashion.




Versace got a shot in the arm a year ago from their consultant ex-Cloak maestro Alexandre Plokhov. The marriage of utility and masculine details with italian youthfulness is working. Lanvin has been incredibly impressive as of late leading the catwalks with dandified looks.

And then there are brands like D&G who are producing attractive campaings...but. Something isn't quite winning about the line yet. The silhouette is streamlined, yes. The fabrics are luxurious, yes. But there is a certain je ne se quoi lacking that could push it right over the edge. The jetset style is cool but the slickness of the materials make the line far too chilly. The advertisement campaigns are nice though.