Some Brave Apollo

Would these beady eyed anglo-saxon faces lie to you? April 77 has issued a series of items inspired by the the Apollo moon walk conspiracy. The basic gist of the conspiracy is this: The event that everyone watched around the world, live on tv, was actually an elaborately staged video drama to spook the Soviets. Moon walk skeptics ask if we were able to get to moon in '69 then why is it that now thirty years later we've never returned?

Personally, I don't care. But you can explore that tangent yourself.

Back to earth. Head uncorked from the stratosphere. If the premise and silly product description are set aside (pleats certainly do not protect you from solar radiation, kids), this jacket looks really incredible. Its about time someone revived the memory that astronauts (and pilots) were once treated like rock stars, and were deployed, naturally, in some of the most popular rock songs of all time. (Space Oddity, Rocketman, anyone?) . Who better to honor forgotten rock stars than April 77?

Modern Couture

It's all too easy to forget that clothes are no more than an augment to our bodies. Our body type suggests the flavor of drape and the shapes we surround ourselves with. Whether wraith thin, or broad and muscular, we all have a form. Some wrestle with it, other settle into comfort. But contemporary neuroscience and philosophers of the mind are currently challenging the boundaries between mind, body, and environment such that we should seriously reassess our identity as situated in the flesh and what lies beyond.

Electronics have become essential parts of our active life. We are in fact merging with our inventions. Some artists, such as Nancy Nisbet, and scientists like Kevin Warwick are already exploring the frontiers of cybernetics. Warwick succeeded in forming a kind of radiotelepathy using the internet with his wife at the other end of a direct link. Integrating the mind with databases and linking it to appliances has become a practical reality, so the self is extending into our tools.


The most accessible and common form of body transformation is excercise. Rick Owens was recently featured in Details declaring that "modern couture" consists in mastering your own body, promoting your own health. He goes on to say," No outfit is going to make you look or feel as good as having a fit body." It's now taken for granted that a good diet and regimen of exercise can greatly impact our daily stress levels and self esteem.

Our personal lifestyle is absolutely an extension of our sense of self. How lost do we feel when we leave home without our cellphone? How coherent are we without proper rest? These devices, technological and behavioral, are simply features of who we are. The limits of our identity is flexible, amorphous, and shifting like the transition of one season into the next.

The Lengths We Go For Fashion

Lord Whimsy of The Affected Provincial's Almanack has supplied sleazerag Vice with a sampling of body mutilating fashions of the past and semi-present. If you thought you were too body conscious, then this will make you feel better (and then make you a bit sick).

Imagine if, when you were a kid, your parents used elaborate and painful methods to force your head or feet into bizarre and permanent shapes. Or imagine if the surest way to get a decent job was to stand perfectly still while your friend hacked the side of your face with a cutlass. Now imagine never washing your hair until it became a hardened crust or being completely covered in mites and lice for your entire life. Or imagine living in permanent fear that your neighbors might at any moment decide to hunt you for the fur on top of your head.

Of course this isn’t fantasy: It’s history. Over the centuries, human beings have practically turned themselves inside out—and on occasion happily turned others inside out—for the sake of status and style. Let’s take a wee stroll down memory lane.

Brave stomachs may read the rest of the article here.

Sufjan Covers The Castanets - "You Are The Blood"

Just listen.

Inter.view: Mike Townsend of Inven.tory

New York moves along at a fast pace. Staying in tune with the shifting forces of streetstyle and cutting edge design takes more than fluency it takes prescience, intelligence, and taste. It takes more than syncretism; you have to be what's happening.

The minds behind Inven.tory are owners Mike Townsend, Whitney Singer, Jon Daou, and Erin Berkery. Last fall they launched a brand which hit the ground running, targeting the thirst for wholesale priced overstock. Imagine a perpetual sample sale. They opened their first store on Kenmare and Elizabeth, bringing together brands like Idol Radec, Corpus, and Acne. It worked and so they opened the doors of a second location on Lafayette in a massive space with simple laid back decor.

I spoke with co-owner Mike Townsend to discuss the neighborhood, Inven.tory, and his views on style.

Q: New York has been a fashion mecca for a long time but not many people have heard of Nolita. It's a little neighborhood which has over the past decade developed into a unique pocket of New York culture. What originally attracted you to Nolita as a location for Inven.tory?

Mike Townsend: My gravitation to Nolita was based on the places my friends and I ate like Lovely Day (before the fire), Rubys, Bread and Cafe Gitane. The neighborhood also has a great feel to it with great restaurants and cool boutiques. It also helps when your business partners do real estate in the Nolita area.

Q. Did all the restaurants play a factor? There's a lot of excellent little restaurants in the area.

MT: I think my answer to the first question answers this! It definitely is a plus, the great restaurants, but wasn't really a factor in our decision to set up shop here.

Q. How did the idea for Inven.tory emerge? I think the wholesale direction its a brilliant move for the area and the times, but what thread connects the labels that you've brought together?

MT: The idea of Inven.tory started after we had hosted a few sample sales at OpenHouse Gallery with Whitney Singer and Erin Berkery. We realized that young designers needed another outlet to sell overstock than sample sales. That's when we created the idea of a curated boutique with wholesale prices. As for choosing labels, we go after designers who we personally admire and wear, but also designers whose overstock is on trend. We also have future collaborations with some young designers.

Q. Was it scary expanding to another location so soon? I know little about running a business but I've heard expansion is supposed to be scary.

MT: No, it wasn't scary! We saw it all as a great opportunity. We have a very confident team- Whitney Singer, Jon Daou, and Erin Berkery.

Q. What's permanent in men's style?

MT: I think footwear is the most permanent in men's style. It is one of the way men can be fashion forward and have fun with their style.

Q. If you could resurrect one element of menswear that's gone the way of the dodo what would it be?

MT: At the moment, I feel that a lot of elements have been re-used and tweaked throughout the years whether it be from the 70's or the 90's. I don't think I have any one specific element because almost everything has been resurrected at some point. I really like how designers such as Robert Gellar and Rick Owens take the best of the past and incorporate them into new ideas for today's fashion.

Q. Trends you could live without? And by 'live without' I mean piss you off.

MT: I can't stand when people don't dress age appropriate.

Check out Inven.tory's stores found at 237 Lafayette St and 19 Kenmare or follow them online @ inventorynyc.com

Beverly Hills Housewife For Sale

David Hockney's Beverly Hills Housewife painting, part of the gorgeous series "California Dreaming" is soon to go under the auction hammer at Christie's following the death of the original owner and subject of the painting Betty Freeman this past January. Hockney was good friends with Freeman a major patron of the arts. She was an angel to the great painters and modernist composers of the mid-20th century. Fans of Mark Rothko and John Cage owe her a priceless debt.

This painting was probably the centerpiece of her private collection but its striking and humorous faceoff between a mounted antelope head and Mrs. Freeman evokes so many bizarre tracks of thought. The housewife as a trophy. The housewife as a decorative fixture. Its an odd uncomfortable joke but a rich one as well. I am all but certain I've never seen more than two paintings from this series and very few important Hockneys at all. I hope this winds up in a major international show so I can finally get a chance to see more of Hockney's most well known work.

For more info on Betty Freeman and/or how you can spend your millions this May click here.

Linda Farrow x Everybody

Linda Farrow Vintage has more partners than a Mormon patriarch but I love their promiscuity and will continue to love it as long as it continues to spawn new profiles and playful Harringesque primitive scrawlings. Seven New York has a gross number of styles from David David, Raf, Bernhard, Henry Holland and more designed to make me look for a better job

The brand was relaunched in 2003 after Simon Jablon, son of Linda Farrow herself, discovered in one of his families warehouses the remains of glamour past. Soon the brand became a launch pad for original collections and fruitful collaborations with some of the shiniest avant garde designers of today.

AnOther Man: Hedi and Herzog

AnOther great issue from AnOther Man for Spring and Summer has arrived and this time its free, which is very kind. The issue features the work of superstylist Nicola Formichetti and some shit shot by some guy named Hedi whom is rumored to have some sort of clothing line project to unveil later this year. Whatever the situation may be he and Nicola sure can take pretty pictures together.







The mag also contains an Elizabeth Peyton inspired editorial and a discussion with one of my favorite film directors Werner Herzog (Red Dawn)and Errol Morris (Mr. Death; Vernon, Florida). The two discuss cinema verite, contrasting so-called "realism" with the ecstatic truths of the late Grizzly enthusiast Timothy Treadwell.

I had the pleasure of seeing Grizzly Man premiere at the National History Museum several years ago and a subsequent Q&A with Herzog himself. My question for him went unasked: Who would win in a cage fight a grizzly, or a bengal tiger?

Film fanatics unfamiliar Werner should consider reading his fantastic book Herzog on Herzog in which he discusses his craft, films, and his ideal version of film school which would include boxing classes. Next to Tarkovsky's Sculpting in Time its one of the richest discussions of a filmmakers approach and theory to making a movie.

Extra Mustard On My Lindenberger S'il Vous Plait

Spring's face is almost upon us and its absolutely smeared with mustard. J. Lindenberg dives into the color trend with a pair of smart narrow trousers for your consumption. He also has seen fit to supply this washed voille shirt in another color I'm fond of: indigo. The washed, crumpled look may not be for everyone but that's why Jesus created steamers. Mr. Lindenberg is also serving up these sateen shorts in black. All items are available to order now at Oak.

Peter Bjorn and John

This is a meager offering in my digital drought. As I complained in a tweet my laptop adaptor/battery issues are keeping me a low-key presence. I beg your apologies and offer Japanese Teddyboys for peace and mutual understanding.


Nothing to Worry About (download the song here)



Lay it Down



A few violent themes seem to be emerging as signs of a tough guy narrative to run consitently through the soon to be released PB&J record "Living Now". If "Living now" is as consistent as their last effort this Swede trio deserves to blow way up.

Mangina Attack

It doesn't matter what season it is. The label name (in this case Yiga Azrouel) doesn't matter. The cool cuff detail is irrelevant. The quirky pocket doesn't matter. This pant has a khaki vagina. Priced at $360 USD, its the cheapest sex-change for your buck. If you can live with a khaki vagina.

American Double Vision: Thom Browne & Ralph Lauren

I completely missed the memo on Thom Browne venturing into womenswear with Black Fleece but Cintra Wilson visited his shop for a review. Her conclusion is muted optimism but what really interests me is the contrast she draws between New York designers Ralph Lauren and Mr. Browne, their aesthetic and their ideal suited male.

It’s a slightly gothic twist on the Old Money Athletic Club look, originally reified into postmodern absurdity when Ralph Lauren stuck crusty leather bridles and yellowing crew-team photos on mahogany paneling and pronounced it a lifestyle.

But Black Fleece appears too sensitive for sports. Mr. Browne, like Mr. Lauren, nurtures a fetish for the trappings of Old School Preppy, but the Thom Browne alumnus seems to be a bit more pale, less muscular and more (ahem) eccentric. Picture a cross between Pee-wee Herman and Nurse Ratched, only more obsessive-compulsive

Its a fair observation, though I do not share Wilson's apparent antipathy for Ralph Lauren's perspective, it does serve to highlight the radically different take on American sportswear that Browne has carved out. His niche doesn't glamorize Americana as Lauren is prone to do through amber tinted lenses, instead Browne fetishizes Ivy League exaggerating quirky features into stylish neurosis and turns 60s white collar garb into ritual costume.

Two looks from Ralph and Thom's SS09 collections

Ralph Lauren built an empire on wide ties, elitist country club imagery, and snapshots of sporting memories. He built the power look of the 80s, and his suits remain popular with corporate customers. He carved out an entire narrative for his brand. Personally I find it rather admirable that the Ralph Lauren man can go from the ranch, to the bar, and to the office at the drop of the hat. I sadly hear a lot of young people find Ralph Lauren boring but for me there's nothing boring about buttoning into a Purple Label suit. Call me crazy.

Conversely, it's not surprising that many traditional tailors oppose Browne the designer. Browne says uniformity, not individuality, is the definition of beauty. However, his consistent preoccupation with the quirky accidental and his mechanized view of beauty is very different from the system of a men's clothier. But furthermore, Browne is deeply attatched to off-beat superficial artifacts of preppiness. This was more than apparent in his SS09 "tennis" collection. On the otherhand what is strangely alluring about Browne is just that, the odd subversion of conventional American sportswear circa 1960 into a sometimes uncomfortable mix of pageantry, kitsch, compulsive habit, and asphyxia.

two looks from Thom Browne's Moncler Gamme Bleu collection

While Browne and Lauren couldn't be more different, I feel completely at home with both creators, and I've been inspired by both. There is no reason why gender-bending arty design and more subtle elegant design can't exist in the same world. American fashion, particularly in New York, needs to be able to press forward and express itself more liberally, but there's no reason why certain standards and hallmarks can't be enjoyed simultaneously.

Hipsters In Space

"Someone's infringing on our theme"

Honestly, its the funniest thing I've seen in ages.

The Ever-Stylish Coal Guy

I've spoken a bit before about how I don't quite get the workwear trend pushers though I appreciate their enthusiasm for style in general. A Continuous Lean, Get Kempt, Jack Davis, and their readers have a deep appreciation for American made clothes and have done well to promote neglected brands. The latest issue of Newsweek even spotlighted ACL author Michael Williams and I believe the attention is well-deserved.

However, the overall look promoted to me is not visually classic, its rugged but also rather shapeless. Its a kind of anti-fashion trend and in someways reminiscent of the grunge era. It incorporates suburban work elements, but instead of doing so out of necessity and connoting middle-class youth apathy and sexual curiosity, workwear cobbles earthy traditional maculinity with practicality. However, I've never been a fan of the lumberjack look since it first started emerging years ago on the streets of new york. I'm fine with plaids and checks, sure. But the combo of workboots, a beard, and a flannel shirt was jarring to see on fashionistas. It seems strange to romanticize the mundane daily grind of American industrial workers into a style guide. The Trad shares a similar thought

There's a whole lot going on over at Michael William's blog, "A Continuous Lean." Michael's a good kid. He's a smart kid. And if you read the comment page about his recent quote in Newsweek Magazine you'll discover he's a, "take no crap" kid. Check it out. I'll wait.

So you see... Michael has this thing for work clothes that I don't really understand. I busted my ass for 20 years so I wouldn't have to wear the clothes he loves so much.

Mad Men Costume Designer To Dress Non-Fictional Characters? Me? You?

From Glamour

STF: Designers from Michael Kors to Thom Browne have acknowledged that your work on the show has inspired them...um, how does that feel!?
JB: Last night I met Anne Hathaway [at the SAG awards] because one of my best friends does her makeup. And I was with January Jones and she said "Oh Anne this is Janie, she does the clothes for Mad Men," and Anne Hathaway was like, “How does it feel to be responsible for changing the face of fashion?” and I was like, “It feels pretty damn good, thanks Anne!” It has been incredible, and I’m just glad that it’s really touched and inspired so many people. That’s really the gift.

sTF: Can we expect to see a line of clothing come out of this, or a collection inspired by the show? What kinds of projects do you have going on for the future?
JB: I’m working on some things right now…I hate to be so mysterious but I can't really say! It would have my name attached to it though.

Whatever the project is I will certainly be paying attention. Janie's care for detail could be put to good well in tailored looks for men or women. Hopefully men...not ladies...

Barbarian-Kara: Mihara Yasuhiro SS09

Mihara Yasuhiro has impressed me again, this time by blending tribal primitive simplicity with proper moto details. Incorporating disparate components into an attractive whole. The perforation on the boots and the steel toe on the sandals are both welcome surprises.

Something about the collection reminded me of a different sort of enterprising mind. T.E. Lawrence (of Arabia)

"All men dream; but not equally."

Certainly Mihara was dreaming of approaching a raw landscape, and meeting it with a careful strength. The pieces all have an acted upon, aged quality as well. Its a rare moment when something as straightforward as a boot can be transportive.

Off-Road Strategies

Those gentlemen brave enough to assemble smart accessories, good ties, well crafted hats, and beautiful shoes know the right pairing can complete a look as a glass of wine can finish a meal. A sober navy silk tie might add a good balance to a potentially shrill outfit. A curiously detailed pair of oxfords can breath life into a look based on a dull charcoal flannel.

A recent post by Hard Liquor Soft Holes had me thinking off the radar as he experimented with some different outfits based on a drop crotch pant from CdG for H&M. More often than not, a piece can overwhelm a look or lock our heads into a particular trend portrait. A preppy sweater suggests a smart tie, nerdy glasses and so on, but there's nothing stopping us from showering it with safety pins for a DIY project or pairing it with something more military and edgy. How about ditching Harvard for Machu Pichu?



Trends don't need to dictate our personal looks. Adding personality to a look just takes a little creativity. Doing something unexpected even in the small details can add a touch of excitement to the daily routine. Besides, no one wants to be a cliche.

Cardigan by Richard Chai @ Odin

Western Style Hat by Alexander McQueen @ Brown Fashions

Western Rogues Gallery 8 Eyelet Boot @ Revolve Clothing

The Odysseus At The Rogues Gallery Showroom

Starting Friday the 13th at Rogues Gallery's showroom, the Odysseus, a series of landscape photos by Mikael Kennedy, will be on display. It will also be a great chance to check out Rogues Gallery's nautical inspired Fall collection. Any chance to pretend you're not trapped in a concrete jungle this winter must be exploited.

Experience both in person at 33 West 26th St. on the 4th Floor.

Gaziano & Girling

There's something to be said for comfort. Dressing up can be a bit masochistic as we squeeze our feet into a pair of shoes that are slightly small, or perhaps decide to wear a tie and jacket rather than a loose fitting t-shirt. We suffer for our style. I have often said that comfort is not the first thing that comes to mind when composing a look. But on occasion a shoe just fits so right. Sometimes elegance isn't sacrificed for comfort as is the case with these custom made dress boots by Gaziano & Girling Leffot says can't stay in the shop. Their customer claims

“Since I’ve been wearing G&G my feet no longer bother me”. That’s a strong statement and a testament to the fit and support that’s truly unique to Gaziano & Girling shoes.

Not only do they look great, but they “feel” great as well, and that’s exactly what investing in quality footwear is all about.

Even if they weren't, I can't stop lusting over these beautiful boots, the weight of the double sole, and perfect length of the toe.

Leffot is located at 10 Christopher Street New York, NY.

Bad Boys or Good Seeds

Over the past year the male catwalks have been given over to models with that bad-boy-next-door look. Jethro Cave is in the ranks of Ash Stymest, Cole Mohr, Josh Beech, and Tyler Riggs but he's actually been in the game for three years. He was seen everywhere from CoSTUME NATIONAL to Gareth Pugh this season. Fashion has embraced boys that embody both boyish androgyny and an inherent sense of humor and style. I'm surprised at how at home these kids are on the catwalks as much as editorials. Jethro was profiled by Times Online UK last September:

He’s a proper peacock, this one — he gets his suits from charity shops (“I just buy ’em and wear ’em”) and doesn’t mind spending a few hours on a look. Today’s get-up — before being replaced with a Topman suit for these pictures — consisted of a beat-up leather jacket (bought in Brighton, where his dad lives with his wife, Susie Bick, and their two sons), skinny jeans, boots repaired with gaffer tape, a bum bag featuring an Aussie flag and a self-administered undercut. At a recent festival in Oz, his alter ego was “Joffle, king of the troglodytes”, resplendent in a cloak and with a staff. The urge to wear a dress can also be strong. “Well, you’ve got to frock up sometimes,” he says.

I single out the aussie raised Jethro Cave because he has three things to set him apart.

A) A distinctive head of hair. Here he is shot by designer and photographer Hedi Slimane.





B) The sense to compose this outfit.



C) A cool dad.