12/16/2008

Renaissance Man: Bernhard Willhelm A/W 08/09

Bernhard Willhelm is a fascinating designer that every style obsessed youth knows about even if they've never seen a piece in person. Any man who sends models down the catwalk in pretzel and sausage inspired accessories deserves attention. I stand by my original (negative) impressions of Berhard's recent mens catwalk show. I was right. He needed to update the looks and he did, so I readily admit I am enthusiastic about how he has translated those medieval forms into fresh modern silhouettes. I am absolutely delighted by the presence of razorbacks in this collection and the graphic print on the sleevless tee is a smart play on renaissance iconography. T-shirt screen-printers take note.




The pieces are full of subtle detail (such as the denim collar above) and bold experiment (a 'cod piece' on slim corduroy pants)






I'm in love with the cowls on the oversized hoodies and sweaters, it cuts a great profile and opens up the neckline. I can't wait to add a piece or two to my collection and I'm sure I'm not alone. My only complaint is that I wish there was a drop more of color. The girls line is practically overflowing with rich dazzling color, in contrast.