Hollow Man: Jil Sander RTW Fall Winter 2009-2010
This was a serious collection with a focus on the male power image. The cinched waisted coats accentuate the torso and give way to hints of- and then a shape fully recognizable as - a peplum. Its a sophisticated look, a sculpted masculinity formed with Bauhausian immediacy.
Emergent earthtones ground the color story but there were some lighter moments in the form of brisk pastel hues. The colors are transitional rather than punctuated expressions in contrast to a similar but fiery statement made in his Mark Rothko collection for his own line last year.
The true star of the collection however is in the construction not the chroma. Especially when the eye rests on the muscular space created in the sleeves of these drop shoulder knits. Its as if a muscle suit was built and the stuffing subtracted, an interesting play on form. Simons is the master of modernist tailoring building challenging yet appealing shapes for his ideal man.